Cyclerickshawallah
Day
The
Indoo Push Initiative (IPI) to create an annual day of recognition and
solidarity for the 1,800,000 cyclerickshaw drivers of India, by driving
an Indian Cyclerickshaw around the world.
In
1981, aged 26, I arrived for the first time in India in Madras
intending to purchase a scooter and travel around the Sub-continent.
I had heard the endless stories of the wonderful Indian Railways, and
there was a coherence to their telling that grated on my sensibilities,
where everyone seemed to have met the same beggar on the platform at
Benares station, watched Indians abluting while perched like sparrows
on the rails, and had been trapped in a compartment for three days with
the same Indian businessman. Being a natural deviant from the common
experience, I had reckoned that India by the roads might prove a less
well worn adventure and reveal a less trodden perspective. This plan,
however, went quickly awry when I found that scooters were like gold
dust, with a years long waiting list for new ones, and second-hand
ones apparently changing hands only on death-beds.
In
the course of two weeks fruitless searching through the backstreets
of the old city, the Black Town, I engaged many cyclerickshaws,
one of which much to my astonishment had a tiny engine
tacked on the back connected to the rear wheels. To give a broad comparison,
this little motor produced about the same power output as a large household
vacuum cleaner. The rickshaw driver, or wallah as they are
known, was not entirely relieved of his back breaking labour, since
the mechanical addition still required him to pedal on occasions. But
on the flat, and with no head wind blowing, this cyclerickshaw with
engine attached, trundled forward at a very pleasant 15mph (25 kph),
unaided. Albeit a very small and simple bolt-on addition, nonetheless
its addition exactly alleviates the debilitating nature of hauling a
cyclerickshaw, and provides the vehicle and driver with a new proficiency
that is in sharp contrast to the lot of the vast majority of the 1,000,000
Cyclerickshawallahs who struggle to ply their trade in India.
For
the most part, these Cyclerickshawallahs are sterile by the time they
are thirty, and dead by the time they are forty five. Their position
in both the economic and social order is at the cardboard bottom of
urban shanty, and little has changed over the years. The nature of this
work is such that in horrifyingly simple terms their physical
output is not matched by the amount of food they can afford to feed
themselves with, let alone their families. Towards the end their legs
give out. They fizzle out like cheap fireworks.
On
inquiry, it turned out that this little hybrid machine was a rare item,
left over from a failed scheme initiated by Sanjay Gandhi in one of
his crusades, the likes of which he is not remembered well for. This
time, the political tonic was not mass enforced sterilization, but to
purge the nation of the iniquities of cyclerickshaw driving. Man
Shall Not Pull Man. was his well intended slogan. Following the
well worn course of his grand ideas, the scheme collapsed into an organisational
disaster, before being officially abandoned by Delhi government in its
second year. The following year he also expired when his light aircraft
failed to complete a loop-de-loop. It may appear a crass thing to say,
but while his mother and family grieved, most of India heaved a sigh
of relief.
Despite
these dubious origins, the cyclerickshaw with engine attached was a
minor stroke of genius. It was almost as fast as the scooter derived
autorickshaw (touk-touks or phut-phuttees),
but less than a quarter of the purchase price, and only marginally more
expensive to hire than the ordinary cyclerickshaw counterpart, which
it easily out-performed in almost every respect. In consequence, the
thin scattering of lucky cyclerickshawallahs who received engines as
part of the original pilot scheme were unpopular with both of these
competing forms of taxi, whose drivers quickly conspired to sabotage
them. Added to this, there were powerful scooter manufacturers in Delhi
whose autorickshaw interests were also threatened by this new development.
They lobbied a hopelessly inept and corrupt government, finally reducing
the pilot scheme into a tragi-comedy of broken engines and absconding
cyclerickshawallahs except for, that is, in Madras.
Madras
(now Chennai) is the capital of Tamil Nadu, historically a state always
happy to place a thorn in side of Delhis central government, ever
since it successfully refused to ratify Hindi as the national language
in 1948. Its Chief Minister both a working class hero and a film
hero of the Tamil cinema known as MGR decided to disregard Delhis
directive, and invoked the 1927 Hackney Carriages Act of Madras in order
to permit these new hybrid cyclerickshaws (with engine attached) to
continue plying their trade in his city. He had a colourful style of
helping the poor in Tamil Nadu, which included a renown from giving
Madrasi cyclerickshawallahs plastic ponchos every monsoon. This was
perceived as a generous and thoughtful gesture, and in turn proved to
be an excellent vote catching ploy. Besides all that, Madras was an
engineering city, born and bred, and Madrasi people are proud of this
heritage. They immediately appreciated and embraced this quirky little
innovation. Twenty five years later, cyclerickshaws with engine attached
are still to be seen, buzzing about the city, carrying people or baskets
of fish, or perhaps loaded high with twenty sacks of cement.
*
On
the strength of what might be called either a minor epiphany or a clutching
at straws, I decided to have one of these cyclerickshaws with engine
attached built from new, and to travel around India upon it with my
cousin. In the minds eye, it was to be a Rolls Royce amongst cyclerickshaws.
The construction process, however, turned out to be a devilish undertaking
during which time there was a strange polarisation, where, the less
the project progressed, the deeper I became immersed behind dark glasses
in the romantic vision of the thing. I think it was perceived that I
might give up and go home if this manufacturing process could be sufficiently
protracted.
These
dynamics collided when the sign painter materialised to paint the rear
of the rickshaw passenger body, which at that point was little more
than a piece of tin tacked onto a wooden frame. Lost in exploring this
romantic vision (or perhaps it really was a flash of lucidity), I explained
that Madras to London was to be emblazoned across the back,
suitably heralding an idyllic scene of distant mountains with a river
running to the sea there is, of course, no saving some of
us!
All
excited from the magic conjured by these words, we found some newspaper
offices, and the proposed endeavor received coverage in the national
press. This transpired to be a mini-masterstroke, where the workshop
owner was struck dumb to see his name in print in a national daily,
and construction of this rickshaw was suddenly undertaken in real earnest.
The workshop became all hammers and smoke, and two weeks of flamboyant
Madrasi engineering expertise ensued. Finally, garlanded with flowers
new chrome and paint shimmering in the smoky shafts of sunlight
that penetrated the broken corrugated roof finally, the first
Transcontinental Cyclerickshaw (with engine attached) emerged into the
bright world. The following day, we slipped away at dawn, heading South
along the pot-holed roads that wend their way into the temple lands
of South India.
*
Four
and a half years later, after an adventure of extraordinary, even supernatural
twists and turns (I might add, a couple of spiritual switchbacks)
I hobbled the same Madrasi cyclerickshaw (engine still just attached)
up the A3 into London, having covered under its own steam and mine,
perhaps 15,000 kms. During that journey, which halted for a few years
in Sudan, I had often fallen prey to the daydream of this great welcoming
day at the completion of what had become a relentless self-fulfilling
prophesy. But in the final instance, I found myself shying away from
publicity, and it all became an oddly personal and private little victory.
Forthwith,
I chucked an old tarpaulin over it, and did not peer under it for a
further three years. I was utterly sick of cyclerickshaws, having realised
the futility of this little exploit. There was no denying it had been
both enormous fun and a vicious struggle to complete, but lurking behind
all of that, I felt a pathos, where, in the end, the whole affair left
me feeling a little shallow, although I dined out on it endlessly, and
still do.
Sometime
later with support from friends and family and a creeping need
for some sort of recognition I wrote down this tale. But at the
moment of receiving interest in the manuscript, I declined to pursue
the possibility of publishing. It was my first attempt at writing and
as Benevuto Cellini stated, A man should not attempt autobiography
before he is forty five years old. That manuscript has now languished
for twelve years, and hopefully some useful composting has taken place.
I am now fifty, and the book is published next year.
*
In
amongst the residues of this little adventure, remained a gnawing search
to make sense of it all. After living and working in Bombay in the late
eighties, I began to look into the possibilities of doing something
to help Indias 1,000,000 cyclerickshawallahs. I began investigating
micro-credit schemes with the idea of forming cell cooperatives so that
they might be able to purchase these little engines for their cyclerickshaws.
Sanjay Gandhis initial scheme had failed for a number of sordid
reasons, but none to do with the design of the technology, which had
shown itself to be extremely sound and robust. Thus, although I knew
the product was suitable, it took more time to realise that, whichever
way I looked at it, the client was tricky. There are intrinsic problems
in lending money to cyclerickshawallahs so that they are in a position
to purchase an auxiliary form of power, where often a daughters
dowry might, understandably, be more important. In the end a sort of
common sense prevailed, where I recognised that, at best, in a lifetime,
I would but melt the tip off this iniquitous iceberg, and at worst would
become mired in unresolvable details. The only way forward I could really
envisage was to gift these engines, but that required massive investment
and funding.
For
all of that, I still sought a way that I could help. I had come into
close contact with these people I must have met thousands of
them in India on that trip, and each time was a pleasure and a celebration.
It might be conceited to suggest it, but in truth I vicariously was
living out some of their dreams I was both tethered to the same
machinery, yet foot-loose and happy. But when all was said and done,
the time of my life had been enjoyed on the burden of their
misery. I could not see a way to ease or assuage the sense that my pleasure
and small notoriety had been achieved on the back of one of the poorest
sectors on the planet. I dont suggest that this was a guilt, but
my close contact somehow made me feel implicated if I were Buddhist
or Hindu, which I am not, one might call this my dharma.
*
Event
Horizon
Cyclerickshawallah Day
27th January, 2007
A Day of recognition and solidarity for the 1,000,000 Cyclerickshawallahs
of India
Slowly
the plan has emerged. I am currently, in stages, riding the same cyclerickshaw
back to Madras (now known as Chennai) and around the world. In India,
the media machinery had found the initial story irresistible, with coverage
in the national dailies, and magazines. I have come to realise that,
after completing the circumnavigation, attention will again be drawn
to this little cyclerickshaw. I intend to use this focus along
with a swell of Indian politicians, who, like MGR, cannot resist lending
support to initiatives that help poor sectors in India as a springboard
to inaugurate Cyclerickshawallah Day, allying it to Republic
Day (26th January), or more precisely, the day after since it should
be on a working day and stand in its own right.
On
this day and annually thereafter, the people of India will be pledged
to acknowledge the cyclerickshawallahs that carry their goods and chattels
around the city, that take their kids to school, that yield to their
every beck and call, that oil the machinery of their busy lives. On
this one day of the year the cyclerickshawallahs of India will hold
out their hand a little longer to their regular or occasional customers,
for an acknowledging tip, a little baksheesh, because this
is their one day of the year. This notion will broadly succeed because
cyclerickshawallahs are close enough to the poverty line to press the
issue, and I will ensure its continuing resurgence in the Indian media.
That apart, Indians all secretly know the relentless hardships of cyclerickshawallahs
lives, and would suffer loss of dignity to deny such an acknowledgement.
As such, this small gesture falls firmly inside the grammar of sentiments
of the pan Indian culture, although, of course, there will always be
a cheap brand of Indians who will avoid using cyclerickshaws on that
day. Money matters aside, this day of recognition gives Cyclerickshawallahs
a much needed sense of themselves, where often even their existence
seems to be denied. If one million rickshawallahs manage to receive
one US dollar more on Cyclerickshawallah Day, then this
is $1,000,000 moving in the right direction with zero administrative
cost.
For
all of these good intentions, a bit of baksheesh and a reluctant, acknowledging
smile falls a long way short of actually lifting cyclerickshawallahs
lives above the poverty line, or easing their debilitating workload.
The intractability of poverty in India is hard to come to terms with,
for it has a resilience that I feel un-empowered to compete against
head-on, nor should a foreigner presume to become involved at such a
level, Mother Theresa being a possible exception. All I can earnestly
hope to bring to the table is to offer the cyclerickshawallahs of India
a sense of unity and inclusion within the fabric of the modern world,
from which they are mostly excluded. Without a champion and in the harshness
of the Indian economic climate, they have been heeled down into the
medieval time warp that co-exists along side Indias 21st century
counterpart. I am going to shift that, even if just by a small amount.
It has been this determination that has ameliorated the memories of
my last efforts and got me back in the saddle along with the
realisation that, although I may not achieve a sea change, I am in a
position to do some small thing of net value.
*
Four
years ago, I acquired all the spare parts and a year later the original
cyclerickshaw was brought back to life. To a resounding cheer, my wife
and I coaxed the little beast off the pavement in front of Big Ben,
where fourteen years earlier it had finished its last journey. We set
off northwards.
Three
weeks later, after a grand meander of visiting friends, (at one point
causing a magnificent but blameless seven mile tail-back outside of
Huddersfield on a Friday night) we reached Edinburgh where the festival
intervened and commandeered the rickshaw as a stage prop and support
vehicle, after which we had to return to work. Subsequently, it sat
in a commercial storage space, holding its own between a power boat,
and an antique Jaguar.
In
the summer of 2002 I resumed the journey, heading further north to Aberdeen
and then on to the Faroe Islands, Iceland, and Greenland, where mush
mush, huskies will became involved. Things did not go well on
the first attempt to cross the Greenland Icecap and We turned back leaving
the rickshaw on the icecap. The following spring, We attempted to re-locate
it but there was no trace. Later that year with metal detectors and
a glaciologist, we made a second foray up there but without result.
At this point I officially declared it lost. This summer I am off to
Madras to get a replacement rickshaw and have it shipped to Greenland.
After much heart ache, I realize I cannot stop now!
*
In
this little exploit, I have enjoyed the freedom to make up my own rules
and not be answerable to the constraints imposed by sponsorship. One
of the few self imposed rules is that sea journeys are permitted but
only at a minimum, hence the northern route, and that the rickshaw should
never cheat by being carried on the back of another land vehicle, hence
the use of dogs and addition of skis. Although a struggle is inevitably
involved, at the heart of this initiative is the idea that it should
be playful it should be interesting and should be enervating
in its originality. Cyclerickshawallahs will not thank me for unhappily
wearing their vest of hair they want something a little larger
than life.
People
express a certain disbelief (such as, youre mad.)
when I suggest we are taking a cyclerickshaw onto the snow and ice.
But once they come to understand that I drove this machine across the
Nubian desert, where the tarmac petered out into sand 28 kms North of
Khartoum, and then further elaborate that 250 kms of that 900 kilometre
desert crossing were covered on the Nile, when with the help
of an accomplice and eight oil drums arranged with a Mississippi style
paddle we transformed it into the one and only Nilotic Cyclerickshaw
which successfully skittered through the white water of the 5th Cataract
or that it was towed 30 kms through 15 hairpin bends up to Ootacamund
at 2,500 metres behind a fuel truck and traversed the Western Ghats
three times
or that it managed to cover 300kms in one day
the doubters are usually less eloquent, but nonetheless confirmed in
their original suspicions.
For
my part, this journey follows the very simple and pragmatic ethos of,
if it is not over the top, then its not worth doing.
and that in turn follows Eliots notion that the unknown
paths are the only ones worth pursuing. I never would be holding out
this begging bowl if I had not followed that ethos.
Whichever
way, once the rickshaw drives back up onto the tarmac in North American,
I am changing to electric motive power as this is the future of global
urban transport, and the future of cyclerickshaws in India, and elsewhere.
Such electric conversions[1] are inexpensive, easy, effective, and fully
sustainable in both co2 emissions and noise pollution levels. Each electric
conversion kit costs less than $100 including two batteries, charger,
1 kw motor, mounting bracket, belt and controller etc.
I
am canvassing for the free or sponsored distribution of this technology
in India, and everywhere else. Anyone who is familiar with India will
know that one of the major sources of urban pollution is the dreaded
autorickshaw. Despite attempts to regulate them in Delhi, these vehicles
have very little to commend them, as they are not only highly polluting
both in emissions and sound, but also dangerous and uncomfortable, while
cyclerickshaws have always been an integrated feature of Indian urban
life that adds colour and flavour. By deploying kits to electrify cyclerickshaws,
market forces will reduce the number of autorickshaws[2] and consequently
improve the general tone of Indian urban life. It will again become
a pleasure to walk down a busy Indian street. Once the impetus towards
electric motive power becomes familiar, perhaps autorickshaws will also
be converted, such as is happening in Katmandu where such a pilot scheme
has been successful.
*
The
issues of global warming, and more precisely the burning of fossil fuels
within urban confines, are finally becoming transparent. No-one can
hide from the fact that the attempt to raise the quality of life through
the incendiary of fossil fuels is now wholly undermined by the negative
effects of the residue of that combustion directly on those life qualities
this attempt seeks to enhance. In simple terms, the use of fossil fuel
technologies has grown into a pervading cultural and global psychosis.
The
remedy is now no longer one of hippie dippy impracticability, since
the alternative technologies and energy sources have evolved and emerged
to be economical viabilities and are now well understood and proven.
The vital emphasis now is how quickly the political machinery can be
goaded into a coherent response to this awareness. Its now time
to uproot these imperatives from the cosy nursery of Green idealism,
and thrust them into main stream political agendas, such as has begun
to happen with wind power, where it has finally been realized that the
essential difference between 40 off-shore wind generators producing
60 Megawatts and a 60 Megawatt nuclear power station is that the former
is cheaper to install, cheaper to run, and fails entirely safely. The
visual aspect of wind mills is not a matter of ethos its
a matter of taste.
This
awareness cannot transpire too soon, if history is not to brand us as
utterly bird-brained. The science of the global warming phenomenon is
no longer questionable. Where reputable science journals such as Nature
or New Scientist in the seventies, eighties and nineties
used to cast aspersions on such research results, they now support them
whole heartedly, even in their editorial. Despite the defensive spin
originating from the oil industry, the causes behind this phenomenum
are now well proven and documented. Its us; we are doing it.
At
present, however, global warming is still presented as an abstract entity,
as though this were a story happening to another planet, and not the
one we currently inhabit. If ever there was a time when disastrous consequences
loomed, while international politicality floundered in stasis and self
absorbed delusion, then this is that time. I for one am not standing
by to watch a bunch of self interested individuals turn our world into
planet toilet.
With
the possible exception of Iceland, which has a mandate for converting
to hydrogen motive power by 2010, no government has a coherent policy
in light of this knowledge. The more I considers this, the greater my
determination grows to confront current energy policy makers. It has
become clear to me that real political initiative no longer takes place
within accepted political frameworks, democratic or otherwise. The drawing
of attention to issues is now best achieved by independent media exposure.
Hence,
taking a cyclerickshaw around the world is a media platform to embrace
and high-light both the plight of Indian Cyclerickshawallahs, and the
paramouncy of this global imperative to find practical solutions that
truly reduce fossil fuel burning, and methane & co2 production .
These two initiatives converge on this living, moving demonstration
of how little energy is actually required for safe, comfortable and
convenient urban transport when human power is included at critical
moments, and how effective these micro-powered vehicles are. Incidentally,
man powered rickshaws or cyclerickshaws have been appearing in a few
western cities, and their numbers are growing, but without an auxilary
power supply they cannot successfully compete with existing taxis or
cars. The addition, however, of a micro-power plant and a design to
ensure weather proofing would quickly transforms them into truly viable
urban transport for the 21st century.
*
Pursuing
this thought, I have been designing electric taxis/rickshaw variants
for the last three years, and more specifically a version for London,
based on a Hansom Cab. I am currently are working on designs for Rome,
Paris, New York and Medina. The key is to this profligration of electric
urban microtaxis is vernacular - if they are to be successfully adopted,
they must be perceived as already familiar objects.
I
am a committed believer that public transport cannot wholly usurp dedicated
forms of transport in the urban environment, and therefore the banning
of cars in city centres must be counterbalanced with a greater availability
of inexpensive taxis, as one finds so conveniently in Asia. Powered
by electricity, such an introduction is not only a practical environmental
solution, but also an employment generator. Technologies such as satellite
navigation aids, wireless payment transactions and wireless information
providing, greatly facilitate the operation of such a service. I cannot
emphasise too strongly that this is both a vision and an entirely practical
solution for implementing a coherent and sustainable approach to our
21st century urban environment.
The
purists who support the regime of cycling and public transport
as a solution to our urban transport problems, fail to embrace our needs
and desires for private space and dedicated flexibility. The weakness
of their ideas is clearly demonstrated by the almost limitless capacity
of private car owners to absorb taxes and disincentives. The Asian urban
model, on the other hand, shows that the critical level of convenience
ie that which is necessary to retain fluidity in the urban environment
can be achieved with a major reduction in the use of private
vehicles, if comfortable cheap taxi transport becomes easily available.
It sounds obvious and simple thats because it is.
To
sum up, the Indoopush Initiative is to raise awareness of such 21st
century issues, but more importantly, to instigate an annual boon for
Indian Cyclerickshawallahs and a way forward to improve their lives,
and my priority will always remain as such.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[1]
Photovoltaics are not considered part of this equation at present, as
they are still prohibitively expensive and impracticable on many fronts.
[2]
Although autorickshaws can travel a little further and a little faster
than cyclerickshaws with engines attached, the latter is nonetheless
almost equivalent in general performance.

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